Girls on Cogs

Destination: Helmsdale – John O’Groats

Daily miles: 59

Total Miles: 1035!!!

Average speed: 10.4

Weather:  Horrendous…nice to have wet and wind to finish as well as start….

So, after a big bowl of porridge (following a few beers the previous night to celebrate almost reaching our final destination with a couple of other end-enders, and Emma having to wrestle the small bottle of whiskey we had purchased from me in the early hours….) we set off up the big hill.  We had been told the hill was 9 miles long, in fact it was only 4, followed by a little downhill, then a further 2 miles uphill.  Weather had started nice and sunny, but quickly deteriorated to the point we had to stop in a bus shelter as we couldn’t see where we were going.  We were cycling in literally rivers of water flowing down the side roads and creating waves!  I particularly enjoyed the speeding car that didn’t slow down through the lake at the bottom of the hill, completely covering me.  Emma helpfully said that ‘well, we couldn’t be any wetter!’  We had originally planned a route passing Dunnet Head as the most northerly point, however due to the very poor weather and the extra 15 miles this would add, we aborted this idea in favour of reaching JOG as quickly as possible.

We had to stop for coffee and a cake (and had lots of congratulations from the old people on the bus at the coffee shop). We had to ask the shop assistant to mop the floor after us for fear that a little old person might slip in the pool of water left around our seats.  It was slow progress up to Wick, battling against both wind and rain, and we decided to have a nice warm lunch here until the rain subsided a little…gutted to see two lads we had met in the Castle had already finished and were looking nice and dry on their way home…

It was only 17 miles from Wick, so we bought our pasta dinner and a bottle of wine.  We were approached by some young lads who had heard about us in the pubs (?!) and were about to embark on the end-end from John O’Groats – advised them bivvying was very brave in the current climate!! and so we set off for the final leg.  The weather had dried up a little and we bounced along to John O’Groats, heading to the lighthouse at Duncansby Head as the most NE point.  We took some photos here, holding our bikes like trophies above our heads, then headed to the sign-post at JOG. It was now after 5pm, so the official sign where you have to pay to have your photo taken, had been taken down (very mean we thought!) So, the final photo had to be taken outside the first and last gift shop! 

We made it!! and had a really good time (despite the weather), we didn’t fall out and still had stuff to talk about .

Many thanks to everyone who has supported us along the way, it really did keep us going.

Hels and Em xx

Hi all Stav here.  The girls have phoned to say they have made it to John O’Groats.  Apparently the last few miles were pretty wet and windy but I’ll let them tell you all about it when they get an Internet connection.  It appears the Internet does not extend that far north.

They are both pretty pleased to have finished and had a tot of whisky at the end.

Well done girls!

Destination: Culrain to Helmsdale
Daily Miles: 46
Total Miles: 976
Weather: Sunny start and rain

After another hearty continental breakfast in the castle we headed back to the village of Ardgay and over the Bonar Bridge, to pick up the A9 again. Made good progress and stopped for our usual morning coffee and cake. Helen couldn’t pass by another bike shop without popping in for some minor adjustments. (5th bike shop so far!). For a bargain £4.50 she had her gear cable replaced.

Headed off again and in search of the Clynelish Distillary in Brora. It had just started to rain and having less than 50 miles to ride today, we planned to do a tour and have a little sample. Obviously we don’t condemn drink cycling!  Just arrived in time to take the next tour and bought a little bottle of whiskey to top up our hip flasks in preparation for tomorrow’s celebration.

Took the coastal road to Helmsdale, bumping into the lads again we have met previously who also seemed pretty elated to have made it this far and only one day to go.  Just seen the sign for John ‘O’ Groats……. 55 miles to go!!! Off in search of beer now.

Destination: Loch Ness – Culrain
Estimated miles: 70
Daily miles: 81
Total miles: 930
Average speed: 12.4
Weather: mostly sunny – just a few spots of rain
Navigational errors: approx 18 miles!

Having consumed a hearty bowl of coco-pops, we were on the road by 9.15 and headed along Loch Ness (A82) and the A833 towards Beauly (with an additional, unplanned 18 miles via Carrich as we missed the turning – whoops!) Oh well, had a bacon and egg butty and cycled super-fast to catch up in just over an hour. Had a little look round the gallery at Beauly, then had a little stint along the A9 before taking the B9176 as the direct route towards Bonar Bridge. Had a good run over the hilly heathland with good views of Struie. Arrived at our castle for the evening around 6.30, just in time for a 3-course dinner being served in the great hall – marvellous! There is a resident pine marten in the grounds so Em is now on the look-out for that – having failed to see any dolphins in Oban.  Now retiring to the library with a cup of coffee (as we failed to purchase any booze along the way) to read poetry to each other, or probably just annoy the other guests by laughing….still not run out of stuff to talk about.

Destination: Oban to Loch Ness
Daily Miles: 86.3
Total Miles: 849
Average Speed 13.2
Weather: Mostly dry and sunshine
Other cyclists seen: 16

Started the day eating breakfast looking over the bay. Absolutely beautiful morning, still no dolphins! Reluctantly left but only because it was so nice to be beside the sea. Hels and I decided that is the only downside of living in Leicester!
Set off at a really good pace, both feeling good and no aches and pains.
Headed along A82 stopping for a few photos. Castles, Lochs, Highland Cattle and Red Deer. Route was reasonably level and we went past Loch Creran, Linnhe, Lochy, Oich and finally Loch Ness.
Stopped along the way for lunch in Fort William and passed some guys we had last seen in Somerset. Spoke to some other guys doing the end to end and they were planning to arrive tomorrow! No luggage!
Of course it had to rain at the end of the day.
Arrived at Loch Ness YHA, which looks right over the Ness. Bike shed available again, so very useful and our own room each. Only downside is the nearest pub for food was a cycle ride away, so back on the bikes!

Miles: ZERO
Average speed: walking pace
Aching: legs and a little saddle sore
Calories consumed: thousands…..
Calories burned: 2

Started the day with a little lie in and read in bed…lovely!
Headed into Oban and found the Pancake Restaurant we spotted yesterday and had pancakes with lashings of cream and icecream.
Reluctantly took Helen’s bike to the bike shop for further repairs. The pucture resistant tyres are proving they are not! Tried not to be too girlie about it, but just wanted the man to fix it! Unfortunately he did not have the tyres required, so kindly took off his own winter tyres and fitted them. Also new brake pads (on the right way around) and 2 new inner tubes (the right size)…… I am saying nothing, but maybe someone at a popular cycle shop in Leicester may need some new glasses!
We walked through Oban and up to McCaig’s tower and enjoyed the view over the bay. Only a little bit of rain.
We decided it was too early for lunch, so took a boat trip out to the Seal colony. By this time it was blue skies and sunshine and the seals and their pups were very cute. Good views of the surrounding islands. Apparently there were also dolphins in the bay feeding off the mackerel. Not today unfortunately.
Lunch time and we enjoyed a seafood platter with oysters (and everything!) and a bottle of wine.
Finished off walking along the seafront with an icecream.

Destination: Loch Lomond – Oban
Daily miles: 76.6
Total miles: 762.6
Average speed: 11.5
Weather: Started off quite promising…then heavy showers again.

Met some other cyclists over breakfast, who were JOGLE-ing (ie opposite way to us) and seemed very impressed there were only 2 in our pentalon (and unaided) and even asked advice about our route. We were also asked advice by another young cyclist who needed some help – we obviously look like experts now!!

We had a nice run alongside Loch Lomond to Tarbet, and it was good to get some quick miles in. We then chose the road to Inveraray, which looked quieter through Glen Croe. Were very excited to see a sign saying only 49 miles to Oban, so had a little stop for some chocolate, to boost us up the next long climb out of Inveraray. Then the rain started…had to have a quick coffee and cake (still no cream tea) to help us through the last couple of wet hours to Oban..for a well earned rest. So, to celebrate, had a big portion of fish and chips on the sea front, looking out over the bay.

Destination: Dumfries – Loch Lomond
Daily miles: 102
Total Miles: 685.7
Average speed: 11.4
Weather: Dryish, but still very windy, (prevailing winds..my arse!)

We left the lovely, warm B&B and headed to the local bike shop, as my back tyre was a little soft. More air identified a puncture, so after fitting a new inner, we left Dumfries around 9.30…Five miles in, we stopped to fit another inner, and patch a big gash in my rear tyre..Bugger! We set off again along the A76 towards Kilmarnock, and stopped for some afternoon tea at the Little Thief. It was 5pm and still 40 miles to go. It was going to be a late one…We took the A735 past Stewarton to Paisley, skirting around Glasgow and over the Erskine Bridge (with separate cycle lane), to pick up the A82 to Loch Lomond. The hostel was a lovely stately-home type building on the banks of the Loch, and we had 10 minutes to spare before the reception closed!! No inclination to cycle back out for some food, so it was a tin of Scotch Broth tonight (and again no beer – on a Saturday night too!!). Kept telling ourselves..one more day and then a day off! In all the tiredness of the day…we used the men’s shower room ….don’t know who was more surprised!

Destination: Kendal – Dumfries
Daily miles: 86.6
Total Miles: 583.8
Average speed: 10.4
Weather: Very wet and windy – all day!
Sense of humour failure: very testing – wavered a little, but still a smile at the end of the day….

Left our hostel, after a hearty breakfast and headed to Brucies bike shop in town to top up the tyres for free, but spent £70 each on some new gel gloves and some tinted cycle glasses, in the hope of some sunshine. We had a bit of a climb up to Shap, and then once out of the valley, the weather would be clearer – apparently not!! Not even the new rose-tinted glasses made much impression on the gloomy outlook…After an hour and a half, and only 16 miles of being weather beaten, we stopped for a hot chocolate and some warm soup, and then back out into the wind and rain…lovely! We persevered…and persevered…and persevered, eventually crossing the Scottish border where we had a celebratory tot of rum, and took some smiley photos for evidence in Gretna. We made it to Scotland! Then, back on it for some more battering of the weather, and arrived at Dumfries at a lovely B&B around 8.30. After a hot shower, we ordered pizza and watched a bit of Jonathan Ross – a wild friday night!

Destination: Parkgate to Kendal

Miles: 85.9

Total miles: 496.8

Average speed: 13.5

Punctures: 1

Weather: Dry

Ready to set off at 8.30am prompt to discover Helen has a puncture. No problem, we can change the inner tube pretty quick…. difficulty pumping up the new tube, so start again. Despite checking the tire, we have missed a piece of metal and punctured the new inner. Eventually on the road by 9.15am but missed our initial ‘Ferry across the Mersey’. We take a later one at 10.40am and enjoy a leisurely coffee.

Enjoy the quick ferry trip over to Liverpool and pick up the A59 towards Preston and Lancaster . Decide we need to make a return visit to Liverpool for some site seeing. Making really good time so decide to stop for cream tea whilst we are still in England……. not a chance! Manage a cup of coffee and that was about it.

Back on the A6 for last 15 miles to Kendal, arriving at 6.30pm.